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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.